Introduced in the sprawling eastern city in 1873 during the early days of the imperial British Raj, trams in Kolkata were initially horse-drawn, then steam-driven. Electric-powered trams took to the streets in 1900. The single-storey trams — painted in uniform stripes of bright blue and white, with a sunshine yellow top — trundle at best at around 20 kilometres (12 miles) per hour, if not snarled in traffic blocking its route.
| Photo Credit: DIBYANGSHU SARKAR/AFP

The history of trams goes back to the colonial era when horse-driven trams were introduced in the U.K. and were discontinued in the year 1882. During that same year, steam locomotives were deployed in Calcutta (now Kolkata). Two decades later in the year 1902, the electric tram was born in the city and since then it has been the pride of Kolkata. It is the oldest operating electric tram system in Asia — a testament to Kolkata’s dynamic vision. For over 150 years, trams have run on the streets of Kolkata, symbolising the rich heritage and quaint spirit of the city.

The two-coach tramcars are manned by two conductors, one in each. The tram conductors are renowned for their brown uniform, shoulder satchels and neatly folded tickets and notes between their fingers. The tram routes run parallel to other vehicles and on special tracks along the side of busy streets. If you are wondering if trams follow traffic lights then the answer is YES. Every tramcar has a distinct design — huge circular fans on the ceiling, windows with railings, wooden seats, an antique bell and dim yellow lights. The tram’s bell rings melodically, cutting through the cacophony of chatter and honking horns. The iconic wooden seats have served as a backdrop for several stories capturing the essence of Kolkata’s culture.

The first ride

My first memory of riding the tram to my grandmother’s house is etched vividly in my mind. It was during one of the summer evenings when the city’s humidity slowly faded away and there was a cool breeze. My mother and I boarded the tram from the Esplanade tram depot and headed towards Khidderpore — this was when the tram was still functional on the scenic route of Maidan. We sat on the circular seat at the end of the tram and were captivated by the rhythmic clatter of wheels on the track and the sound of the tram bell echoing on the street. As we glided through the city to our destination, I wished for the ride to go on forever. Every time I revisit this memory, it reminds me of a simpler time and beautiful moments with my mother.

A tram passing through the lush green trees besides Maidan Grounds.

Less fare, more fun

Tram is one of the most economical ways to travel across the city. The low-cost fare is just another charm of it that makes it accessible for one and all. During its pinnacle, the tram’s first coach was considered a first-class coach and the other one was a second-class coach with a lower fare than the first coach. It was in the year 2013 that the Government of West Bengal made the fare the same for both coaches. When I was a kid, it was mind-blowing to know that I could travel from Esplanade to Gariahat for just ₹ 6! Riding in the tram allowed me to explore my city without breaking the bank.

In this photo, a conductor holds a bunch of tickets, as passengers commute in a tram in Kolkata.
| Photo Credit:
DIBYANGSHU SARKAR/AFP

Fast forward a few years, I took my best friend, Sampurna, on her first-ever tram rides on one sunny afternoon in December to the hub of books — College Street. Our excitement was at its peak and as we stepped onto the tram, the warm winter sun through the window welcomed us. We revelled in each other’s company and shared many stories until we reached our destination — a heaven for book lovers.

“My first ever tram ride was magical and evocative – I saw my city in the winter Sun, felt the vibrancy of youth, the comfort and familiarity of friendship and found a gateway to the unexplored elegance and sheer brilliance of the unknown, almost all at once.”Sampurna MukerjeeLawyer

With another friend of mine, we chose a different route that led us to a small quaint cafe for chocolate. It was his first-ever tram ride too. We had to wait over 20 minutes for the tram to arrive at the depot. My friend was full of zeal to experience his first-ever tram ride. We settled into our wooden seats and as the tram rattled on making a stop every once in a while we couldn’t help but feel excited. It was a day filled with the joy of discovering our city together!

Seeing my friends enjoy the tram ride, pointing out sights and sharing stories, filled me with happiness. It is always a personal win to introduce people to the gems of your city and relish their first-time experience.

Running after respite

As I grew up and moved to a different part of the city and began my career as a journalist, my love for trams did not fade away. My first-ever workplace was near the bustling streets of Chandni Market, Kolkata and by the end of each day it felt like a race against time. Even though buses, autos and metro were at my disposal, I preferred to take the tram to reach home. I have always found something soothing about the gentle glide of the tram like a respite from the chaos all around. Planning to clock out of work as per the schedule of the tram and dashing down the bustling market to catch the tram became part of my daily routine. There were days when I had to run for the tram too. Once seated, I would put on my music, unwind my day and enjoy people-watching on the familiar streets. Taking a tram s not just about reaching a destination; it is about the journey itself.

In this photo, a conductor collects tickets as passengers commute in a tram along a street in Kolkata.
| Photo Credit:
DIBYANGSHU SARKAR/AFP

The immortal life

Trams represent a simpler time and a slower pace of life. Whenever I sit in the tram, there’s always a quiet sense of tranquillity amidst the busy city’s bustle. It gives people the opportunity to leave worldly affairs behind and just be in the moment.

In this photo, passengers commute in a tram along a street in Kolkata.
| Photo Credit:
DIBYANGSHU SARKAR/AFP

But today nobody is willing to be in the moment. We all seek speed in everything — internet, traffic, getting a job, cooking food, etc. Transport Minister of West Bengal Snehasis Chakraborty called trams ‘a slow mode of transportation’ and the Government of West Bengal is planning to discontinue tram services as it is causing huge traffic issues. During Durga Puja 2024, tram services were completely halted and after 10 days, it resumed only in two routes. The trams have declined from 52 routes in the 1970s to 25 in 2015. The High Court is yet to announce the final call on the termination of tram services. Citizens and activists across the city are fighting the matter out and trying to save trams even if it’s for nostalgia’s sake.

“Cities that do not have trams always look less literary, less poetic, and less mysterious!”Mehmet Murat ildanContemporary Turkish playwright, novelist and thinker

A trip to Kolkata does not seem complete without a tram car ride across the city. Even as Kolkata modernises, the spirit of the tram remains alive in the hearts of its residents. Today when I am away from my city of joy, I hope to ride the tram before it takes its last breath.